Rothenburg, Germany

By Edward Britz

Imagine the glistening, trout-filled Tauber River winding its way through the Bavarian countryside. High above, overlooking the landscape, are the towers of a medieval city. They are fortified with ramparts, faithful and timeless.

WELCOME to Rothenburg oberhalb der Tauber, where precious little has changed over the centuries.

Through gates in a 13th century wall lays a world of winding, narrow, cobbled streets, framed by centuries of age-old craftsmanship. Yet this is a modern, functioning German town. The street vendors call out their wares as the bakery's hearty aromas draw you in. Regardless of where you turn, the surrounding wall will eventually remind you that for generations, the people who lived here were protected.

In 970 AD,Rothenburg began as a castle.By the 12th century it was given tax and trading status as a free town. From there, it blossomed. By the 1400's, the economic success of the community swelled its population to 6000 people, making it the 2nd largest city in Germany.

Then the 17th century witnessed the onslaught of the Thirty Years War, a long and bloody feud between the Catholics and the Protestants. Rothenburg took a position among the Protestant powers, but through successive attacks, the city eventually succumbed to the Imperial Troops under the command of Count Tilly in 1631. His plan was to make an example of the defying community: plunder and destroy.

As the story goes, all would have been lost if not for one last-ditch effort made to acquire the good graces of their would-be tormentor. The wine master's daughter offered Count Tilly a "welcome drink," a mammoth glass goblet holding over 3 liters of fine, local wine. Tickled by the town's evident desperation, the Count decided to be merciful... if anyone of its inhabitants could down the generous portion of wine in one draught. Mayor Husch bravely stood forward and successfully completed the task, accompanied by wild cheers from the townspeople. The city was saved, the legend immortalized in the clock on the Councilors' Tavern, and naturally, the people reenact the event annually, complete with parades, a performance, costumes... and drinking.

Though Rothenburg never returned to its wealthy former state, its undoing proved to be its blessing. Progress lay dormant and structures remained untouched for generations, essentially freezing it in time. This became its great asset.

During WWII forty percent of the city had been destroyed. An American, determined to preserve the history of the community, pleaded with the U.S. Army to give the local commander there a chance to surrender the city. His offer was granted. Major Thömmes surrendered the town, defying Hitler's ultimatum to fight to the end, thus saving Rothenburg from destruction.

Since that time, much has been done to restore and preserve this pure and unadulterated glimpse into history. The beauty is that so much is original. My recommendations:

14th century walls: Walk them. You will have 1.5 miles of vantage points for amazing photos.

The Rathaus, or Town Hall: Located in the market square, this impressive building has 2 architectural styles. The older Gothic part dates from 1250 while the Renaissance front addition is from the 16th century. Climb the 200-foot tower. It's one of the best views of the historic district. Underneath the tower is a museum highlighting the Thirty Years War and the Historic Vaults, the dungeons where Rothenburg's legendary Lord Mayor, Heinrich Toppler met his death in the early 15th century.

The Kapellenplatz: A small lane at the northern end of the market square will take you to what use to be the town's first Jewish quarter and synagogue until 1390. There is a rich and tragic Jewish history here. They prospered until an impoverished client, who could not pay back a loan, initiated an unfortunate rumor and lead the most horrific pogrom in medieval history. In 1298, the "Rindfleisch- Pogrom" named for its instigator, killed over 10,000 Jews in 60 Frankonian cities. The Jewish people re-established, but more pogroms followed. In 1520, the last Jews left Rothenburg. Centuries later, a community was formed again, only to be halted by the Nazi's rise to power. Repeating history, 1938 saw the last Jews leaving Rothenburg.

Medieval Crime Museum: Medieval life was not always rosy. Here you will witness 4 complete floors of grisly torture devices, old law books, stories of punishments. You'll either love it, or be begging for a gift store.

St. Jakob's Church: Rothenburg's largest church with soaring, light-flooded ceilings. If you're a Riemenschneider admirer, it's marvelous interior boasts two 500 year old hand-carved alters, masterpieces by Tilman Riemenschneider himself, the Michaelangelo of Germany. Tragically, he was involved in the Peasant War in 1520 and when captured, lost his hands.

St. Wolfgang's Church (Shepherd's Church): Built in 1492 where the shepherds met to worship St. Wolfgang, their patron saint. The structure is fortified on the outside while remaining gracefully Gothic within. Today, a "Shepherds Dance" is performed several times a year in remembrance of the essential role sheep farming played on the economy of Rothenburg. http://www.schaefertanzrothenburg.de/

German Christmas Museum: Imagine 2750 square feet of Christmas tree ornaments, historic nutcrackers and Father Christmas figures, celebrating Christmas traditions of old Germany. It's either a paradise, or not for you at all. Regardless, Rothenburg is considered by many to have one of Germany's most charming Christmas Markets and its holiday festivities will definitely leave you with the Christmas spirit.

 http://www.weihnachtsmuseum.de/

The Castle Gardens: Nestled in the east side of the city is a haven of flowerbeds and grassy lawns, reminiscent of where Rothenburgs last castle stood. It is also the site of the "Jewish Memorial Stone" in memory of the tragic "Rindfleisch-Pogrom" of 1298.

And of course, Schneeballs: A typical Rothenburg treat. Like many bizarre foods enjoyed today, these came from harder times; leftover dough rolled up and fried... only now coated with everything and anything your sweet tooth desires.

If you're like me and love to get off the beaten path, then escape into the valley to the little village of Detwang. You'll find it hiding along the Tauber River just below the west town walls. The village is actually older than Rothenburg and boasts the only Romanesque church in the area, St. Peter and Paul Church, which also happens to have a Riemenschneider altarpiece. Walk its quiet streets and soak it in.

For more introspective peace and quiet, I recommend exploring the city at night, when most of the tourist busses have gone, the city's inhabitants are more themselves, and you can hear your feet echo on the stones of the quiet streets. Take the night tour. It is done expertly by the "Night Watchman" and is completely unique to the tours by day. Afterward, sit by the wall, which, even in the 21st century, will bring you a feeling of security. Look around and take advantage of the silence to see if you can hear any history echo off of the ramparts.

For tourist information, visit: http://www.rothenburg-online.de/

For a live webcam link to the Market Square visit: http://www.rothenburg.de/ (bottom right of page, "Live vom Marktplatz")