Organic Viticulture, Choosing to Choose Organic Wine

By Meguire Caldwell, MS

As I sit alone, waiting patiently for my flight to begin boarding, I realize my great anticipation for a hopefully magical trip into San Francisco during the wonderful holiday season. When the bartender comes around at the 12th Fairway Bar and Grill in terminal D of the Phoenix Airport, I confidently request "a glass of your house cab, please."

WHEN THE GLASS OF WINE ARRIVES, I look at it, judging its every move. Then I think for a moment. I often order house wines because they are less expensive, and have the potential to surprise me with their quality and expression. Special occasions are a perfect time to try something a little more, well, special, but alone at the airport is one of those times I like to get to know some of these hidden gems.

So the wine arrives. It’s bold, a bit daring with a bite, dry with not a trace of legs. It’s peppery and musky, with blackberry and dried cherry coming through. It leaves a spongy feeling on my tongue, and an anxiousness in my mouth and senses to experience the next sip. It is exquisite and unique in its own less expensive, possibly underestimated way. Then I wonder, "What if this wine was organic? What if it developed varietal quality and characteristics through a natural process without the use of artificial fertilizers or synthetic chemicals? Would I be able to tell?"

Today, many winemakers are choosing organic production for their grapes. Bonterra Wines, located in Russian River bench lands of Mendocino County in California, has made the commitment to produce "world class wines that are a direct reflection of the organic vineyards in which they grow". Backed by their passion and values, the people of Bonterra Wines believe that through organic production, an incredible environmental diversity is reached where animals, plants, and soil can "create a web of natural balance where all the elements thrive". Their 378-acre vineyard is certified organic, in which composting, cover crops, and natural cycles develop a land that is rich and full of life. Healthy vines and intense, high flavor grapes result.

With increasing respect and recognition, Bonterra Wines has been able to realize its success in choosing organic wine. Not only do their customers know the wine is coming from a good place, but they can tell.

According to the Organic Wine Journal, organic wine is a top new trend in restaurants across the United States. It seems to be that this trend compliments an overall shift in chef philosophy to buy, prepare, and serve organically raised meat and poultry, as well as organically and locally grown produce. The trend suggests a further interest in supporting sustainability and local farmers, creating a greater sense of wholeness and simplicity in their restaurants. So now, not only are restaurant patrons across the U.S. receiving and enjoying food that is fresh and organic, but they are being offered wine that supports a healthier, more natural system of living.

Chez Panisse is an organic restaurant, nestled in one of my favorite places, Berkeley, California. The James Beard award-winning executive chef and owner, Alice Waters, prepares and serves only the highest quality ingredients, which undoubtedly matches her passion for sustainable agriculture. The restaurant’s wine list, which changes daily, doesn’t fall short of this concept. You will find organically grown wines like Robert Sinskey, Pinot Blanc, 2005, whose philosophy is to "encourage natural farming and wine making practices... establish a healthy, balanced vineyard environment... prohibit the use of chemicals that can harm microorganisms, and emphasize timing to work with nature’s rhythms". As Alice Waters and restaurants throughout the nation have realized, such organic philosophies are recognized not only in the distinguished flavor, freshness, and experience of food, but in the flavor intensity, distinct character, and crisp clarity of wine.

In the United States, organic wine must be produced without the addition of any sulfites. This is one of the many valued characteristics of organic wine. Sulfites, or sulfur dioxide, is a fruit preservative used in the production of wine as well as dried fruits. All wines contain sulfites. Although organic wine has no added sulfites, they still contain some, as they are a natural by-product of yeast fermentation. Since sulfur dioxide is used as a preservative, almost all winemakers, with the exception of organic winemakers, add it to their wines to increase the shelf life. Organic wines are thus more perishable than non-organic, which often results in an unusual aroma. The smell is known to be caused by free aldehydes in the wine that would normally be bound to the added sulfites and found odorless. Such odors, however, are without a doubt avoidable. Simply store both your organic red and white wines in the refrigerator, with intentions of serving them sooner than later. Some may see this as an inconvenience, but to me it truly seems there’s not an issue at all. I mean, isn’t that what choosing organic is all about? Buy fresh, preservative, and chemical free; eat fresh, preservative, and chemical free!

The practice of organic viticulture (the science, study, and production of both the grapes and the wine) is indefinitely important for our ecosystem, as it focuses on creating a natural balance of elements. In turn, it allows for a grape of highest quality, complexity, and exquisite personality that can surely be detected in every sip of its wine. It also allows for a realization of truth in the profound connection between an earth, harmonious in its own elements, and its product, one that stands for simplicity and realness; humbled by the very land from where it came.

For more information visit these websites:
http://www.bonterra.com/
http://www.organicwinejournal.com/
http://www.chezpanisse.com/
http://www.robertsinskey.com/